Kyrgyzstan

From our own experience:

Accomodation: Every large town has a guesthouse available, but Kyrgyzstan is really one big camping ground and sleeping at locals is also not a problem. On route you can find restaurants along the road where you can pitch your tent in the garden (adfter you drank and ate a nice meal). It used to be the principal rule that ll visitors of Kyrgyzstan need to register at the OVIR in each and every city/village they stay, but luckily this changed and now citizens of almost all western countries don't need to register anymore. There's a list of the 27 countries that are excluded from the registration obligation, find The Netherlands under 'Kingdom of the Netherlands' (in Cyrillic). When we asked locals for a guesthouse or a place to pitch the tent, often we were invited to pitch the tent in somebodies garden or sleeping inside and were invited for dinner. Kyrgystan is one big camping side. In the mountains where you can only find Yurta's (nomadic tents) we introduced ourselves and asked if it was fine to place our tent next to them (never refused and always invited for tea or Gumus, with a Lipjoska and jam). Yurta's stay in the mountains from May till September, after this the cold weather starts and are the roads less accesible.

Safety: Kyrgyzstan is safe. Even in the south you can go (it seems) but you have to watch out more. Main problem you will encounter is a drunk Kyrgyz, he will try to make a conversation with you but keeps on pushing when you ask him to leave. Try to find another Kyrgyz to solve your problem, since it is sometimes difficult to know what to say without insulting the drunk guy and preventing him from going aggresive.

Visa/border crossings: yes, you need a visa. Visa on arrival at the airport is possible, coming over land you already need a visa. You don't need a letter of invitation like the surrounding countries. Don't wait for the stamp in your passport, you don't get one and neither if you leave the country. Arriving earlier is not a problem (at least when you arrive by a land crsossing).

Clothing: 3/4 pants are descent enough. They will not mind shorts but its not their culture.

Vaccination: Russion Encyphilites (Japanese is rare).

Food: Shashlik and Plov are widely available (see Uzbekistan). The shashliks here I liked more then Uzbekistan, as much meat but less fat. Get fresh lipjoska (bread) in the mountains at the yurta's... sometimes dry from last week and sometimes fresh from the oven. In the mountains its difficult to obtain food, but a food ransion of 3-4 days is more than sufficient.

Water: You can drink all water comming from taps. From the mountain you need a purifier. Don't underestimate the cattle that grasses a bit more upstream. Water in bottles is hard to get, mainly its carbonated water.

Language: Most persons speak Russian. Use a Russian phrasebook (with Cyrillic) instead of a Central Asian phrasebook. Young people speak more and more English.

Money: Local currency is Kyrgyz Som (different rate then Uzbekistan). No ATM's available. Traveller cheques can be changed in any major town. Credit Card credit can be obtained in the cities.

Road conditions: The main road leading fom Bishkek to Osh, around Issyk Kol and towards Naryn is tarred. Every other road is gravel, make sure you have some good tyres if you take these roads and a MTB is handy. Road signs are very scarce and you can not ask the road directions often enough (every crossing!). Ask around if some roads are accessible for bicycles and if the road on your map is correct. We often found out on route that roads on our maps were continous, but in reality it were two roads not connected to each other... because there is no bridge (anymore).

Traffic behaviour: Normal. Quiet except for the main roads around Issyk Kol. You drive on the right hand side.

Public transport and bicycles: Bus, your bicycle inside the luggage area is not a problem (if not already full). Complete Yurtas are transported in the back side of the bus and your bicycle can easily go on top. Remember that, like in most public transport, you pay extra for the bicycle/luggage. Our experience is 1 bicycle = 1 person (when you are with 2 bicycles it can also be 1 person). Sometimes it takes some pursuasion from the ticket office that the bus driver needs to take you and your luggage.

To the airport: In Bishkek we arranged a van through the ticket office to pick us up from the guesthouse and to bring us to the airport. Of course, like in Uzbekistan, a MTB fits easily upside down in the back side of a taxi. Bring some straps to tie your bicycle your own way.

Maps: We brought an aviation map (with elevation lines) of the region (1:1,000,000) which is very useful for the mountains. Should you come through Bishkek, pick up more detailed (hiking) maps of Kyrgyzstan at the Geographical Institute (see Lonely Planet). Some places have changed their names after the Soviet period. Some roads on your map are not even accesible for bicycles (MTB), just ask around if you're there... roads in certain areas are closed for tourists without permit (East) and sometimes bridges have colapsed or roads are only accesible for horses.

Post/Internet: Our package from Kyrgyzstan arrived safely in the Netherlandse after 2 months. (Slow) Internet access you can find in all the cities. Internet telephone is a good way to lower your costs to call your mother that you are still alive, let your mother get used to the delay in the line.

From the World factbook (2002)

Background: "A Central Asian country of incredible natural beauty and proud nomadic traditions, Kyrgyzstan was annexed by Russia in 1864; it achieved independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. Current concerns include: privatization of state-owned enterprises, expansion of democracy and political freedoms, interethnic relations, and combating terrorism."

Geographical facts: Country size: totals 198,500 square kilometer with 3,878 kilometers of borders with China, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. The country is landlocked and entirely mountainous, dominated by the Tien Shan range, many tall peaks, glaciers and high-altitude lakes. Altitude: The lowest point is 132 meters (Kara-Daryya or Karadar'ya) and the highest point reaches 7,439 meter (Jengish Chokusu at Pik Pobedy).

Climates: Dry continental but as well polar in high Tien Shan, subtropical in southwest (Fergana Valley), and temperate in northern foothill zone. 

Population: 4,822,166 (estimation of July 2002), of which 52.4% Kyrgyz, 18% Russian, 12.9% Uzbek, and other ethnic groups like Ukrainian and German. Religions: Muslim 75%, Russian Orthodox 20%. Languages: Kyrgyz and Russian (official languages). In December 2001, the Kyrgyzstani legislature made Russian an official language, equal in status to Kyrgyz.

Government and economy: Republic, independant since 31 August 1991 (from Soviet Union). Constitution adopted 5 May 1993. Amendment proposed by President AKAYEV and passed in a national referendum on 10 February 1996 significantly expands the powers of the president at the expense of the legislature. Population below poverty line: 55% (estimation of 2001). Currency: Kyrgyzstani som (KGS).

"Kyrgyzstan is a small, poor, mountainous country with a predominantly agricultural economy. Cotton, wool, and meat are the main agricultural products and exports. Industrial exports include gold, mercury, uranium, and electricity. Kyrgyzstan has been one of the most progressive countries of the former Soviet Union in carrying out market reforms. With fits and starts, inflation has been lowered to an estimated 7% in 2001. Much of the government's stock in enterprises has been sold. Drops in production had been severe since the breakup of the Soviet Union in December 1991, but by mid-1995 production began to recover and exports began to increase. Growth was held down to 2.1% in 1998 largely because of the spillover from Russia's economic difficulties, but moved ahead to 3.6% in 1999, 5% in 2000, and 5% again in 2001. Despite these gains, poverty indicators are no better in 2001 than in 1996. On the positive side, the government and the international financial institutions have embarked on a comprehensive medium-term poverty reduction and economic growth strategy. In November 2001, with financing assurance from the Paris Club, the IMF Board approved a three-year, $93 million Poverty Reduction and Growth Facility."

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This page is last updated: April 2004